the large double gauge on the instrument panel with a MGB tach to
get a better feel for engine speed and power. The gauge fits into
the large hole and looks like it came on the car from the factory.
Tachs from 1968 and later MGBs are negative earth. Earlier ones
are positive earth. MGC tachs are for six cylinder engines and are
wired for negative earth.
MG tachs need a voltage stabilizer. These come stock on late series
IIA Land Rovers, factory wired for negative earth. My voltage stabilizer
came out of the same MGB as the tach.
I ran one wire from the tach to the voltage stabilizer for power.
The Tach's sense wire goes to the low voltage line that goes between
the distributor and the coil. I connected the Tach's panel lights
into the other panel lights.
I installed MGB water temperature and fuel gauges in Land Rover
auxiliary panels. These two gauges also take their power off the
voltage stabilizer. I used the correct MG sending unit for the water
temperature gauge. To make the fuel gauge work, I installed a series
III sender unit.
Using the Tach with a 2-1/4L engine
When accelerating I normally shift around 4000 RPM. My engine's
power starts falling off much beyond that point. The engine seems
happiest cursing around 3200 to 3400 RPM. On long freeway trips
I try to keep it around 3400 RPM.
I have found that even though my engine pulls smoothly down to
about 800 RPM under load, the power is too low to do much with.
I normally down shift between about 2200 and 2000 RPM. If I'm trying
to maintain maximum speed on an uphill grade, I downshift at 2400
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