Converting a Series Land Rover to 200 Tdi diesel

Notes: Glen has installed a 200 tdi from a Discovery into his 1959RHD 109 Series Land Rover. Glen carfully documented his progress to help others contemplating this conversion. All text and pictures copyright 2007 by Glen Anderson.

As has been discussed at great length on various Internet forums, Land-Rover’s 200TDI is possibly the best current option for an engine upgrade in a Series vehicle. The Discovery and Defender units, whilst based on identical blocks and heads have several major differences in the layout of their ancillary components.

For those of us planning on putting a TDI into a Series vehicle, probably the biggest difference is the layout of the timing covers. The Defender cover is the same as fitted to the 2.5NA and 2.5TD engines and, as a consequence, the fuel injector pump is mounted low down on the driver’s side of the engine. This fouls the Series engine-mounting bracket. To use the Defender engine-mounting bracket requires chassis surgery on the driver’s side chassis mount. The Discovery timing cover, however, mounts the injection pump high enough to clear the Series engine-mounting bracket and allows fitment without chassis modification (although you do need to re-site the battery tray and battery).

As I have a galvanised chassis under my 109” I was reluctant to carry out any welding on it so I sourced a second-hand Discovery engine and ancillaries via the dreaded ebay. Discovery engines are also currently more plentiful and therefore cheaper, which is a bonus!

First job was to remove the Discovery engine mounts. These were replaced with Series items. On the passenger’s side there are two sets of mounting holes – use the front set.

Next job was to address the gearbox mounting area. All the studs on a TDI are metric, M10 to be exact. These are fine, but their 17mm spanner size nuts can be awkward, especially around the clutch slave cylinder bracket. You need to source four additional studs for the area around the bottom of the housing. It is possible to source 15mm spanner size M10 nuts for the awkward areas and retain the metric studs, but I had a pack of Series 3/8” studs and a 3/8” UNC helicoil kit – so I decided to replace all the M10 studs with “proper” Series’ ones!

Most of the original M10 studs are in exactly the right place. One of them, on the driver’s side of the housing, needs removing though.

The housing, very conveniently, has blind holes in all the rest of the locations needed to match up with a Series gearbox. I simply tapped these out to 3/8”UNC. The standard TDI set-up uses four long M10 bolts at the bottom which go through the gearbox bellhousing, flywheel housing and secure into the sump/block stiffener. Most people seem to advocate ignoring these, as earlier engines don’t have them. I reason that Land-Rover felt they were needed – so rather than leave them out I counterbored the housing with a 16mm drill to give clearance for some socket-head cap-screws (Allen bolts if you prefer). M10x75 were perfect, and sit just below the mounting face of the housing. There are also two dowels, at about two o’clock and nine o’clock as you look at the rear of the housing, which need to be pulled out – a pair of mole-grips did the trick for me.

A final task was to offer the housing up to my spare gearbox’s bellhousing. This trial fit confirmed the studs were all in the right place, but revealed the necessity to relieve the housing slightly to allow it to sit snug against the gearbox. Each of the “bulges” in the housing that holds (or held) a stud needed relieving about 1-1.5mm. Once this was done, and a further trial fit confirmed all was well, the housing was refitted to the engine with a new housing to block gasket and crank oil seal. The flywheel then went back on.

Whilst we are at this end of the engine it’s worth mentioning that the standard Series IIA diesel spec 9.5” clutch pressure plate (part number 571228) and friction plate (FRC2297) will bolt straight on to the TDI flywheel and mate with the Series II/IIA gearbox. If you are using a Series III gearbox then you can either use a standard Series III clutch, or the TDI pressure plate with a Series IIA/III friction plate.

In order to avoid a complicated and tortuous exhaust header pipe I tracked down a set of Defender inlet and exhaust manifolds. They weren’t cheap, but they will allow a much easier routing of the exhaust header. Unfortunately, they do mean that the standard Discovery high mounted alternator was going to foul the new Defender inlet manifold. As standard, the Discovery engine uses one belt from the crank to drive the waterpump and power-steering pump, with a second belt from the power steering pump then driving the alternator. As I had no intention of using the power steering pump, and needed to resite the alternator, I had a bit of a measure up…

The solution I ended up with uses a pulley sourced from an early ‘90’s Volkswagen Jetta/Golf on the standard Discovery alternator – this puts the “V” of the pulley approximately 12mm further forward than standard. I then made up two 12mm spacers to fit between the block and a standard Series III alternator bracket. This then placed the alternator pulley exactly inline with the crank and waterpump pulleys. By happy coincidence the original power steering belt fitted (although the next size up would be a bit better) and the Discovery alternator-adjusting strap was re-sited off one of the timing cover bolts.

Another mod carried out in this area was to swap the alternator from one “hand” to the other – this is simply done by removing the 3 long bolts securing the front and rear casings together and turning them 120 degrees relative to each other, so that the rear mounting lug lines up with the other front mounting lug, and then reassembling. The alternator is a standard Lucas A127 55amp unit.

You can also see from the picture that the thread on the nose of the waterpump has been removed to allow greater clearance between the pump and radiator. An electric fan will be used instead of the viscous unit.

Normally, when swapping an engine, I would only remove the bonnet and radiator. This time, however, it made much more sense to remove both front wings and the radiator panel as well to make sure I had enough room both to work, and to see and trial fit the additional TDI ancillaries.

Some careful measuring prior to attempting to fit the engine had confirmed that it was definitely going to be necessary to modify the standard, Series style, battery carrier. The injector pump on the TDI fouled the inner rear corner, and my intended radiator-fitting site fouled the inner front one. As removing both of these was going to leave the rest of the assembly very wobbly I decided to remove the whole thing. I have left the two outer “tags” about 2/3 of their original length as, maybe, they might come in handy at a later date. On the next page is a picture of the chassis minus it’s battery tray.

With no obstacles now to physically getting the engine into the chassis, that was what I did!

The driver’s side engine mounting (that’s the RHS, looking from the rear of the engine) needs to be assembled, complete with the rubber mounting bobbin and bottom plate, before it’s bolted to the block. Otherwise there is just not enough room to get a spanner in beneath the injector pump to do the bolts up. I suppose, if you wanted, you could remove the injector pump for access – but that seemed a bit pointless to me.

When fitting a Land-Rover engine I always leave the passenger’s side mounting off the engine. This allows you more movement to wobble the engine around and get it mated to the gearbox. Usually the two units will slide straight together if you do this. Fitting the mount afterwards is a bit of a fiddle, but it’s easier than struggling with the weight of the engine trying to get it onto the gearbox.

With the engine bolted to the gearbox, and the mounts secured I was left with this: Tdi bolted up!

Just to confirm, once and for all, that an engine fitted with a Discovery 200 Tdi timing cover will fit straight onto series chassis mounts, here are some pictures:

With the engine in I decided to experiment a little and answer questions posed by others and myself about the Discovery manifold set-up… Well, I can categorically say that:

Discovery manifolds won’t fit in a 109” chassis without surgery.

As you can see in the pictures the turbo body fouls the top rail of the chassis by a good ½” to ¾”. I would expect to have to take a scallop at least 1 ½” deep to clear the turbo and allow for movement of the engine under load.

I am aware that the manifold assembly will fit, just, in an 88”. Rotating the turbo compressor housing (“clocking” it) so that the outlet is at 10 or 11 o’clock, rather than 4 o’clock helps greatly. Using these manifolds does mean you have to fabricate a tortuously routed exhaust header pipe though, either down between the chassis rails and the starter motor, or up and over the bulkhead mounting bracket and out through the wing and down the front of the footwell 2.6 style.

Rotating the turbo 180 degrees on the manifold might give you enough clearance against the chassis, although it would mean fabricating new oil feed and return pipework, and the wategate actuator and linkage would need modifying too. Putting the turbo outlet at the front would simplify the exhaust routing though, by giving you a little more room to operate.

Dsicovery manifolds offered up
This is the gap between you’d need to route the exhaust through with a Discovery manifold – either down past the starter and chassis, or up over the bulkhead bracket.
(NOTE FOR LHD: A LHD steering box takes up this space meaning a power steering conversion would be mandentory - TJW)

For those people who have asked me about the fitting of a TDI into a left-hand-drive vehicle, the above pictures demonstrate that the Discovery manifolds are going to foul the steering gear pretty terminally.

All is not lost, however as I am lucky to have been able to source some Defender 200 TDI manifolds at reasonable cost via ebay (as mentioned above). With the re-positioned alternator these bolt straight on. A tip here is to fit and connect the starter motor before you it the manifolds as things are very tight with them on.

Left-hand-drive vehicle owners can also breathe a sigh of relief as the Defender manifold assembly puts all the bits well out of the way of LHD steering gear, as is evident in the next photo.

The exhaust header pipe you can see in the picture above is part of a system supplied by Steve Parker Land Rovers (01706 854222). In addition to their kits for installing alternative engines into Series Land-Rovers they offer several alternative tailor made exhaust systems, one of which is a Defender TDI into a Series LWB with a rear fill tank. I decided to bite the bullet and treat myself to one, as it will probably save me at least a day of mucking about. It would be entirely possible to fabricate a system using a 200TDI header, a Series 2.6 petrol tailpipe and silencer and fabricating an intermediate pipe to suit, although the cost saving would probably be offset by the time spent making it!

The heater pipes on the engine terminate, conveniently, right next to the inlet pipes for the round Smiths heater that I have fitted (mine is a 1959 Series II). The hose tail in the rear of the cylinder head is the same thread (3/8” BSP) as the Series item; in fact it’s identical to a Series III part. It’s a larger bore than the corresponding Series II/IIA type so I swapped them over as, after mucking about with the Discovery pipes for a bit, I ended up using the pipes I had fitted with the old 2.25 engine. You could even fit a Series II/IIA style tap if you wanted to, but I run mine open all the time.
The exhaust, I am pleased to report, went on perfectly. I will say though, space is tight around its route and the larger bore pipe requires much more careful positioning to prevent it hitting anything. It took me the best part of a couple of hours to get it right.

Next up is the fuel system. The previous owner of the engine had helpfully removed everything with the aid of a Stanley knife, so a quick trip to a mate to have a peer under the bonnet of his 90 was needed. The TDI system is quite straightforward – fuel from the tank goes to the front port of the lift pump (the taller of the two, usually marked “in”), then from the rear port up to the fuel filter housing. From the fuel filter it goes to the large single banjo fitting on the front top of the injector pump (next to the timing cover). The injector spill pipe comes from injector no. 1, back to a double banjo at the rear of the injector pump (near the fuel cut-off solenoid), and from there back to the tank. As I am using the original 2.25 filter housing for the moment the top bleed-off port is now redundant and has been blocked off.

I had planned on using a 2.25 lift pump to save having to change the tank to pump pipe, but the actuating arms are a different shape and the 2.25 one didn’t seem to engage on the camshaft properly so I’ve stuck with the TDI one – probably for the best.

The battery is now re-sited under the passenger’s seat. My underseat toolbox already had a well in it to accommodate a battery (presumably because diesel II and IIA’s had twin 6volt batteries). Tray dimensions are: 310mm long x 185mm wide x max 220mm high (including terminals). The battery I had fitted in here OK, but if it hadn’t then I imagine buying a battery of the right size would be easier than mucking about modifying the tray. A length of 1” x 1” angle, two bits of M8 studding and some wingnuts make a serviceable battery clamp.

Wiring has been largely straightforward. As the starter solenoid is in the same place as the 2.25 all the main cables fitted straight to the terminal post without modification. Likewise the alternator plugged straight in (admittedly only because I had already converted to a Lucas alternator – if you still have a dynamo then you’ll have to sort yourself out).

I have been advised that the TDI temperature sender won’t work with the Series gauge, and have sourced an adapter from the M16 x 1 thread in the head to take a standard Series sender. As far as I am aware it is a standard 2.5 petrol item.

You need a switched live supply for the fuel cut-off solenoid on the injector pump. Be aware, most Land-Rover diesel switches cut the power to the electrical services when cranking, so you’ll need to source a switch that keeps the current to at least one switched live terminal when the engine cranks or you’ll never get it to start! Luckily for me I had a switch identical to the Series II type but with an additional switched live that does stay on when cranking. This means I haven’t had to muck about with an alternative (i.e. a petrol type) and I have been able to retain the glow plugs “on the key” and not have to worry about a separate switch or relay for them. Quite an elegant solution, and one I am pleased with.

I have made up a short mini-loom for the engine comprising oil pressure feed, water temperature feed and ignition switched live to the injector pump. This is connected into the main loom at the bulkhead. The only other wiring modifications were to remove the Series glow plug ballast resistor and to connect the warning light wires (that used to run in parallel across the resistor), one to the glow plug terminal and the other to earth. I have also replaced the 6volt 3watt glowplug warning lamp bulb with a 12volt 2.2watt one.

My 2.25 engine used a Series III cable linkage as they are much less prone to inducing unwelcome changes in engine speed caused by movements of the engine/transmission assembly on it’s mounts than the rod type. As I have several of them as spares, and they are both short and cheap to replace I chose to use the Series III cable (part number 598852) as the basis of my efforts. I also wished to retain the hand throttle, so it was necessary to come up with a solution that retained as much of the original rod system as possible.

Connecting the actuating arm of the TDI pump is simply a matter of using the 2.25’s pin and clip – it’s a perfect fit. Next, the TDI pump has a bracket on its rear, terminating in a 16mm hole for the original throttle cable. I bored a hole through a M16 bolt, and slotted one side for the cable to pass through (much like a bicycle brake cable adjuster). This secures, with a thin nut and two washers, through the standard TDI bracket. Next I took the original Series III throttle pull lever and cable anchor and, using a small piece of 3mm plate, made a bracket that would mount where the original cable anchor fitted to the bulkhead, and hold the cable outer in a suitable place. Finally I used an old piece of throttle link I had kicking about in the shed to pull the inner. From the following pictures the eagle eyed amongst you will no doubt notice I also moved the actuating arm inboard on the top rod – this was purely for reasons of neatness. In order to get full opening of the pump it was necessary to raise the pedal height a few mm. If this feels awkward in use then I have a slightly longer actuating arm to try.

throttle linkage for a 200tdi in a Series Land Rover

The completed linkage. Note, the link from the accelerator pedal shaft has been moved inboard on the top cross shaft to allow a smooth run for the cable.

200tdi into a Series land Rover - Alternative linkage for LHD by TeriAnn

Glen's linkage will work just fine on LHD Series Land Rovers sold in the US that came with a hand throttle. All you need to do is order RHD SIII 2.5L throttle cable parts and follow Glen's directions. However many Series Land Rovers were sold in the US without a manual throttle. An alternative solution requires sourcing a Defender 200tdi throttle pedal and a LHD Defender 200tdi throttle cable. The first step in this alternate method is to remove the throttle pedal and all the old throttle linkage.

With the engine connected in terms of fuel supply, electrical connections and exhaust the next step to address was that of cooling. Specifically the mounting of radiator and intercooler.

My main aim throughout the project has been to determine the best possible combination of parts for the job, with reliability and ease of future spares availability as major influences. That is not to say that cost has been no object – I have tried to keep costs to a minimum – but I have spent a great deal of time considering the implications of spending money now as opposed to both time and money in the future.

With the above in mind I have felt all along that it would be necessary to use the Discovery radiator and intercooler, rather than try and source any alternatives. The Discovery set-up has the benefit of being guaranteed to do the job properly – as well as being relatively inexpensive. Most of the conversions I have viewed have placed the intercooler forward of the radiator, above the chassis crossmember and hard up against the passenger wing. This has required modification of the intercooler pipework, meaning a future failure would require modification of a replacement – and attendant delays whilst this is carried out. Further, mounting the intercooler here causes problems by fouling with the Series IIA’s inboard headlamps. I wanted to retain the standard outward appearance of my vehicle and moving the headlamps out to the wings was not part of the plan! The Discovery radiator has an in-built water-to-oil cooler and is shallower but a little wider and thicker than the original Series unit. In the Discovery it is mounted on rubber bobbins within a frame that also contains the intercooler. This mounting facilitates its removal and replacement at cam-belt change time and I wanted to carry it over to my vehicle.

Some very careful measuring prior to removing the wings and front panel revealed that, whilst things were fairly tight, there was enough room to fit the standard Discovery parts in side by side without modifying the wings or steering system. The steering relay and drag-link limit the positioning of the radiator to the RHS, and the shape of the inner wing on the LHS means the intercooler has to be set back 22mm from the radiator. If you set back both intercooler and radiator you run into clearance problems with the waterpump.

As you can see, both the 200 tdi and 300tdi intercoolers have the same shape, and will fit in the same housing/framework, but they have their inlets and outlets in different places. The 300TDI one would be good in the type of installation where it sat infront of a standard series radiator as the ports are both on the left hand side, pointing backwards.

If my information is correct a 200TDI Defender intercooler is the same shape as these, but with both ports in the middle of the top and bottom tanks, pointing backwards. If that is definitely the case then that's the type that would fit neatest in my conversion - although they would all fit and work.

The first task was to remove the original Series radiator fixings from the radiator panel. The top edge was trimmed back to just before the pressed step to allow the panel to retain it’s stiffness. The LHS was trimmed back further, largely removing the angled fillet that would originally have ducted the incoming air to the radiator but leaving a small fillet at the top to, once again, lend stiffness to the top panel. The RHS was trimmed back about an inch at the top and then chamfered back towards the bottom.

With this done the front wings were re-fitted. In the bottom of the LHS wing is a pressed steel filler that bridges the gap between the chassis top and the wing itself. As standard, this sits about an inch or so above the top of the chassis rail. My intended intercooler siting required removal or modification of this part as to sit the intercooler above it would make things tight between the intercooler and the bonnet. I cut and stepped it down so that it sat flush with the chassis rail.

My chassis has two steering relay mounting holes, one each side (not all do). This, conveniently, gave me ready-made mounting points to anchor my radiator/intercooler frame to. Firstly I cut the frame at the point where the intercooler and radiators meet. Then I bolted two short sections of 25x25x3mm steel angle to the relay mounting points. The frame section for the intercooler was positioned such that it sat snug into the recess in the LHS wing and tacked into place. The other (radiator) half was then offered up such that it was as far forward as possible, giving maximum clearance from the engine and also tacked into place. Once the positioning had been checked and verified by dry-fitting the radiator and intercooler the joins were seam welded and the top plate was similarly stepped and welded to match. Two small feet were welded on the rear of the frame, one each side, to support the rear against the top of the chassis. These were drilled to take 6mm speed bolts that in turn were screwed down into the top of the chassis.

With the base of the frame bolted into position the LHS upright was carefully trimmed to allow it to fit in the available space. Basically the curved front return was removed, and a couple of small notches cut into it to clear the inner wing. The mounting for the Discovery radiator cowl was removed as it was both surplus and in the way.

You can just see, in the pictures above, the two small feet that support the rear of the frame against the chassis top rail. I have made two top supports for the radiator using rubber grommets picking up on the original top locating pins and securing to the radiator panel either side of the bonnet lock.

With the supporting framework modifications completed I could fit a reconditioned radiator and begin plumbing in the hoses. I had hoped to be able to use standard Discovery hoses, but the radiator sits both higher and closer to the engine than when in the donor vehicle and there was no way that they could be persuaded to fit. Top hose pictured is a “universal” flexi-hose, 38mm diameter and 400mm long. It has an internal steel spiral, which allows it to be bent in such a tight curve without collapsing. This is a semi-permanent solution – I may replace it with a silicon hose at some future point.

The Discovery/Defender radiator doesn’t have it’s own pressure cap and needs to be used in conjunction with a pressurised header tank. The plastic Discovery tank I obtained with the engine was too big and awkwardly shaped to be placed anywhere sensible in the engine bay. The earlier 90/110 type I had, whilst smaller physically, was also an awkward shape to find a home for without having to also redesign the bonnet stay. As has been mentioned before I wish to leave as much of the vehicle unmodified as possible – so rather than have both a non-standard header tank and a non-standard bonnet stay I chose to purchase a compact “universal” aluminium header tank from a company called Car Builder Solutions (01580891309). This is approximately 60mm diameter and 200mm long, and fits comfortably down the side of the RHS radiator frame upright on a small bracket – leaving plenty of clearance for the bonnet stay. It incorporates a small size 1.1bar pressure cap, as found on most modern Japanese cars and motorcycles.

The bottom hose is currently made from two 90degree bends cut from spare hoses, joined with a special adapter featuring a hose tail. The hose tail is connected to the bottom of the header tank. There is a vent hose at the top of the radiator; this is connected to the top of the header tank to prevent air-locks. The header tank has a further top inlet which is currently blocked with a plug cap (supplied with the kit). In the future I may have this inlet removed completely and welded up. Once my funds have recovered a little I will replace the current bottom hose set-up with more appropriately shaped silicon ones.

Next up was the connection of the oil cooler hoses. Initially I managed to persuade the original discovery items to fit. The problem with the Discovery hoses is that they are part flexi and part rigid – in the Discovery they are clamped together and held secure to the body with a bracket. With the radiator sat higher and closer to the engine than before the pipes were simply the wrong shapes to enable a sensible routing. I managed to ease them into slow curves, which at least got them connected. I would not like to say how long you could run with the pipes fitted unsupported in this manner. I only did it to allow testing of the engine and to enable me to drive the vehicle to a local hydraulic hose specialist where I could organise the necessary fittings to make a neat and safe connection.

It was necessary to retain the “short” adapters from the oil filter end of the pipes, as they are non-standard “Land-Rover specials”. The one from the top port of the filter housing is a slightly less acute bend and, when fitted in the bottom port instead, gives a nice smooth sweep towards the chassis rail. Fortunately the other one is also better suited to being in the top port as it then allows the top hose to sweep down to join it’s partner. The new flexis now run along the inner edge of the chassis rail – the bottom one secured with a “p” clip and the top one cable-tied to it. At the radiator end, the original radiator-to-pipe adapters were removed, as they couldn’t be matched to new hose tails. Luckily the threads in the radiator are a standard size (3/8” BSP), and hose tails are freely available to suit. At the bottom I used a 45degree tail, and at the top a 90degree one. I chose to use inexpensive “universal” 20Bar-air/oil/water piping on grounds of cost. The pipes, adapters, fittings and clips were less than £20. Ideally I would have preferred a set of stainless-braided PTFE hoses, but at £80 plus I wanted to make sure the routing was ok first – I may well change them for braided ones before too long, maybe at the next oil change if time and finances allow. Still, the results are pretty pleasing, the new hoses loop neatly and smoothly down from the radiator, along the chassis rail and to the oil filter housing.

The new oil cooler pipes have left plenty of room on the inner wing for me to mount a Rover Montego Turbo Diesel air filter. This is a neat round sealed plastic canister, piped inlet and outlets, that came with it’s own mounting bracket from the donor car. Filter cartridges are cheap at £2.12 each and, whilst I doubt they’d be as good in the desert as genuine Land-Rover ones, are designed for use with a similarly sized turbo diesel engine so should be more than up to the job whilst driving around the UK. I have mounted it as high up and as far forward as possible without fouling the bonnet or the bonnet stay. It would be easy to route the inlet to a snorkel should you so wish, but I have fitted an additional cone filter for the time being. The outlet is just about the same size as domestic drainpipe, and I used two angled fittings to bring the port around to a convenient place to attach the hose. The hose is a standard 2.25 diesel Series “elephant’s trunk”, complete with its steady clip as removed from my original engine. I used an inch of 50mm pipe as an adapter to step the hose down to fit the turbo inlet, but other than that it fitted without modification.

Rover Montego Turbo Diesel air filter housing. The K&N style cone filter is in addition to paper element inside the canister.

The breather hose from the rocker cover was shortened and swung around to fit in the port at the bottom of the filter housing.

Routing of the breather hose

The Discovery 200TDI intercooler is currently plumbed in with whatever scrap pieces of hose I had around from vehicles previously broken. Whilst it fits, subsequent investigation has shown that both 200TDI Defender and 300TDI Discovery/Defender intercoolers have their inlet and outlet pipes in more user-friendly locations. Once I have tracked down one I will swap them over and tidy up the pipework. Turbo outlet pipe should go to the bottom of the intercooler, and the top outlet from the intercooler then goes to the inlet manifold.

I already had a Kenlowe fan fitted to the vehicle prior to the engine swap. The relative positions of the waterpump and radiator mean that a mechanical fan is now not an option so the electric one has been re-fitted in front of the radiator. I have been lead to believe the TDI engines normally run very cool, and seldom need fan assistance for the cooling system. Currently a switch in the cab triggers the fan, with a telltale lamp to indicate it’s running. I may investigate fitting an automatic switch in the top hose or the top of the radiator at some future point, but it is not currently a priority.

Before the swap I had a Ford Transit washer bottle/pump assembly fitted on the passenger side inner wing. The intercooler and its associated piping now occupy that space so it was relocated to the driver’s side.

Well, that’s pretty much it. In addition to the work detailed above I have carried out an oil and filter change, fitted a new fuel filter, changed the cam-belt and tensioners and set the tappet clearances.

Further jobs to do include fitting a remote brake servo and raising the final drive ratio by changing the differentials for 3.54:1 items. However these are outside the scope of this article.

Glen Anderson, July 2007.

Converting a Series Land Rover 109 to a Land Rover 200 Tdi engine

By Glen Anderson
My 200TDI install… For anyone who’s interested!

Discovery manifolds won’t fit in a 109” chassis without surgery.

200tdi into a Series land Rover - Alternative linkage for LHD by TeriAnn

Converting a Series Land Rover 109 to a Land Rover 200 Tdi engine

By Glen Anderson My 200TDI install… For anyone who’s interested!

Discovery manifolds won’t fit in a 109” chassis without surgery.

200tdi into a Series land Rover - Alternative linkage for LHD by TeriAnn

By Glen Anderson
My 200TDI install… For anyone who’s interested!